Burning Wood Efficiently

December 2017

By firing your wood-burning system correctly, you improve efficiency and reduce air pollution. Owners must learn and practise the skills needed to operate their wood-burning system effectively. By mastering the techniques offered here, you will :

– reduce the amount of wood you need to burn to heat your home;
– reduce outdoor and indoor air pollution from wood smoke;
– reduce the frequency of chimney cleaning; and
– increase the convenience and pleasure of wood burning.

The Basics: What Happens When Wood Burns
As firewood burns, it goes through three phases:

Boiling off the water – Up to half the weight of a freshly cut log is water. After proper seasoning, the water content is reduced to about 20 percent. As the wood is heated in the firebox, this water boils off, consuming heat energy in the process. The wetter the wood, the more heat energy is used to boil the water. That is why wet firewood hisses and sizzles and is hard to burn, while seasoned wood ignites and burns easily.

The emission of smoke – As the wood heats up and passes the boiling point of water, it starts to smoke. The smoke is the visible result of the solid wood decomposing as it vaporizes into a cloud of combustible gases and tars. If the temperature is high enough and oxygen is present, the smoke will burn. When it does, it produces the bright flames that are characteristic of wood combustion. If the smoke doesn’t burn in the firebox, it exits the appliance into the flue pipe and chimney. Here it either condenses – forming creosote deposits – or is expelled as air pollution. Unburned smoke also represents a less efficient appliance because smoke contains much of the wood’s total energy. Advanced combustion systems are designed to burn the smoke before it leaves the stove, which is one reason they are more efficient than older models.

The charcoal phase – After the water has boiled off and most of the gases and tars have vaporized out of the wood, charcoal remains. Charcoal is almost 100-percent carbon. It burns with a red glow and some flame or smoke when enough oxygen is present. Charcoal is a good fuel that burns easily. However, burning charcoal often produces carbon monoxide, a serious indoor air pollutant.

In practice, all three phases of wood combustion usually occur at the same time. The wood gases can flame and the edges of the pieces can glow red as charcoal burns, while water in the core of the piece is still evaporating. The challenge in burning wood effectively is to boil off the water in the wood quickly, while making sure the smoke burns with bright flames before it leaves the firebox.

With the new, advanced combustion designs, two flame zones are often visible: the primary flame that rises from the wood and the transparent secondary flame that swirls above the wood. Once a good fire is established and you turn down the air control, you can see the primary flames slow down and become smaller. To get a clean, efficient burn, make sure that there is always a secondary flame. A welcome feature of these advanced wood-burning designs is that the better the combustion and the cleaner the burn, the more interesting the flame looks.

Source: Canren.gc.ca

Fireplace Maintainance and Tips

November 2017

When you cozy up next to a crackling fire on a cold day, you probably don’t realize that your fireplace is one of the most inefficient heat sources you can possibly use. It literally sends your energy dollars right up the chimney along with volumes of warm air.

A roaring fire can exhaust as much as 24,000 cubic feet of air per hour to the outside, which must be replaced by cold air coming into the house from the outside. Your heating system must warm up this air, which is then exhausted through your chimney. If you use your conventional fireplace while your central heating system is on, these tips can help reduce energy losses.

Fireplace Tips :

– If you never use your fireplace, plug and seal the chimney flue.

– Keep your fireplace damper closed unless a fire is going. Keeping the damper open is like keeping a 48-inch window wide open during the winter; it allows warm air to go right up the chimney.

– When you use the fireplace, reduce heat loss by opening dampers in the bottom of the firebox (if provided) or open the nearest window slightly – approximately 1 inch – and close doors leading into the room. Lower the thermostat setting to between 50° and 55°F.

– Install tempered glass doors and a heat-air exchange system that blows warmed air back into the room.

– Check the seal on the flue damper and make it as snug as possible.

– Add caulking around the fireplace hearth.

– Use grates made of C-shaped metal tubes to draw cool room air into the fireplace and circulate warm air back into the room.

Source : DoItYourSelf.com

Storing Your Wood

October 2017

The full potential for heat will not be realized if you neglect the
simple chore of piling and protecting your wood. Proper storage is essential to avoid moisture, bacteria, and insect problems in your home.

Most insect species living in firewood, such as carpenter ants, sawyer beetles, and wood lice, are harmless, but they can be a nuisance. However, the powder post beetle can cause serious problems to hardwood in a home, and bark beetles can spread Dutch elm disease. If elm is used for firewood, remove the bark before storing the wood. Burn or bury the bark to kill the bark beetles.

To avoid problems with insects and moisture, store the wood as far from your house as is practical. Do not store wood in your basement; one cord of wood can give off more than 500 litres (110 gallons) of water. The basic rule is to hide the wood from water, but not from the sun or wind. Green wood will dry slowly or not at all if unprotected, while seasoned wood left unprotected may become unseasoned.

Source: www.gov.ns.ca

It’s Cleaning up Time!

September 2017

Wood-burning systems operate under a variety of conditions during each heating season, which creates the need for many maintenance tasks. Maintaining your wood-burning system ranges from simple, frequent tasks such as removing and disposing of ashes to more complicated jobs such as replacing parts that have worn from usage and heat stress. Regular upkeep also helps the system operate efficiently and safely, since one of the most important maintenance tasks is removing combustible deposits from the flue pipe and chimney.

Maintain Door Glass

The glass door in a modern wood-burner isn’t glass at all, but a transparent ceramic material that can withstand very high temperatures. It is unlikely that the “glass” will break because of heat, but it could be damaged if struck with a hard object. If you need a replacement glass, visit us in store and our experts will be pleased to replace it while making sure it with the right size, shape and material.

The door glass will need cleaning periodically – wait until the appliance has cooled before cleaning. A damp cloth or paper towel should remove any ash dust or light brown stains. For darker, more stubborn stains, buy special stove glass cleaner that will not scratch the surface. Check the special gasket around the glass and replace it when it gets worn or leaky.

Get Yourself an Ash Container

You will want to set an effective routine for dealing with ashes. Following are three ways to avoid creating dust as you remove the ashes:

1. If your stove has an ash pan, empty it regularly (don’t let it over-fill) and transfer the ashes from the pan to a larger, covered metal bucket outdoors (never indoors);
2. Use an accessory ash scoop with a sliding lid to reduce the dust in your home; and
3. If you use a shovel and bucket, remove ashes from the stove slowly and never drop ashes from the shovel into the bucket. Warm splattered ashes are a fire hazard.

One of the best ways to ensure that your wood-heating system is safe, clean and effective is to hire a trained, insured and certified chimney sweep to conduct a thorough maintenance check each year. Professional chimney sweeps will clean the entire system and report any problems. They might suggest that it is time to replace the flue pipes, baffles, catalytic combustor (if you have one) or door gaskets – and may even be able to do the work for you when the time comes.

Have a great cleaning up!

Source: Canren.gc.ca

Live a Blazing Fall

August 2017

The summer almost over, its now time to make the most of the autumn evenings. To enjoy the fresh air and the colors of the outdoors an outdoor fireplace is ideal for those who are looking forward to pleasant evenings, relaxing comfortably in front of the flames.

Fire his a fascinating element. It’s an object of pleasure and comfort. Therefore, outdoor fireplaces are the perfect acquisition to live enjoyable soirée.

You would like to make this dream a reality? Come see us in store to discover our selection of outdoor fireplace.

The Advantages of Electric Fireplaces

July 2017

Whatever the style of your home, the electric fireplace with its gorgeous flame and radiant heat, is the ideal choice for today’s urban folk. Ideal for condo life, it is also perfect solution for the rooms of the house where you want a flame without all the chimney hardware. Simply plug the fireplace into an outlet and you’re ready to fire it up. It’s even easy to carry an electric fireplace up a flight of stairs.

Electric fireplaces are designed to be plug-and-play appliances, much like a stereo or a television. And with realistic fire technology that rivals a wood burning fire, the end result is snap, crackling great!

Electric fireplaces make having a fire possible no matter the time of year…and, for just pennies a day. On a warm night, simply turn on the fire – minus the heat – and in seconds you can be basking in the glow of the fire while still sitting in your shorts. Then, when evening temperatures dip, turn on the heat option to take the chill off. Electric fireplaces work well in colder climates, as well. With variable heat controls, you can create enough heat to warm your toes.

If you wish to brighten the décor of your home, office or place of business with an electric fireplace, please contact us for further details.

Source: Energy Source Builder

Heating with Gas

June 2017

Forget the kindling and the matches. Put away the bellows. Don’t worry about the damper. Cozying up to a warm fire has never been easier. We bring you ‘Fire at your Fingertips’ with our full line of gas fireplaces, inserts and stoves.

Whether you want to heat a small sitting room, a newly finished basement, or an entire home, our gas appliances come in a range of sizes and styles to match your needs – and you don’t need an existing chimney for installation, all you need is proximity to the roof or an outside wall. Here’s what you need to consider when heating with gas:

Gas models can go anywhere
So if you want a fireplace or stove in your bedroom, your kitchen, or even your bathroom, we can make it happen!

Your best choice for zone heating
Most gas appliances are compact and require very little space for installation. This means that you can concentrate their power in the room that needs it most. While a central furnace works to heat an entire home, including the rooms not in use, a gas appliance, heats your living areas.

No electricity required
Our gas fireplace, stove or insert runs on the power of the pilot flame, and does not need any electricity (except for the blower). This keeps your energy costs down, and ensures safe and reliable operation even during power outages. And if the pilot flame should be extinguished, the valve will shut down and your fireplace will turn off, a valuable safety feature.

Lower operating costs
Natural gas remains one of the least expensive fuels available. If you are thinking about getting rid of your old wood stove or fireplace, or you are getting tired of lugging wood into your house, then a gas model is just what you need. Our stoves and inserts can be vented right inside your existing wood chimney, greatly reducing installation costs. It’s easier than you think!

The ultimate in controlled heat
Every gas model comes with a basic on/off switch, located on the unit or mounted nearby on the wall. They can also be equipped with a wall thermostat (basic or programmable) for hands-free operation, or even a remote control for maximum convenience. You can choose the system that best suits your needs.

Glass and metal surfaces get hot
Every model is designed and certified as a heater, which means that they are engineered to deliver high efficiency heat to your home. The glass window and metal surfaces help conduct this heat, and will become extremely hot to the touch. Please take care when operating your fireplace, stove or insert.

Source: Regency-Fire.com

Drying your Firewood

May 2017

1. Cut the wood to length
The wood you have purchased or cut yourself should be the right length for your stove, fireplace or furnace. This is usually about three inches shorter than the firebox width or length, depending on how you load the wood.

2. Split it to the right size
Next, split the wood to the proper size for your burner. For most efficient wood stoves, this is usually no more than six inches measured at the largest cross sectional dimension. A range of piece sizes is best so that when kindling a fire or reloading on a coal bed you have some smallish pieces that will help you achieve the desirable instant ignition. A selection of sizes from three to six inches in diameter for wood stoves will probably serve you well.

Keep in mind that firewood only begins to dry seriously once it is cut and split to the right size because in log form the moisture is held in by the bark. So, when buying wood, ask when the wood was cut, split and properly stacked to get an idea of how ready it is for burning. For this reason, experienced wood burners like to get their wood in the early spring so they can manage the drying process themselves.

3. Pile in a single row exposed to the sun and wind
If wood is to be below 20% moisture content when you burn it in the winter, it must have the moisture removed. The only practical way homeowners can do this is to allow the sun and wind to dry the wood for them.

With this in mind, the wood should be piled in a place where the sun can warm it and the wind can blow through it. As the sun heats and evaporates the water from the woodpile the wind whisks it away.

4. Let the wood dry all summer
Most folks who split their wood and stack it in well-spaced rows find that they can dry their wood in four or five months. If you have your wood stacked in May or June it should be ready to put away for winter’s use by October. There should be no need to dry it longer than that, unless you live in a damp maritime climate and/or use very dense wood like Oak, which is notorious for taking a long time to dry.

Source: JotulFlame.com

Tips on Lighting a Fire

April 2017

Be careful about what you put in your stove. Never use painted or pressure treated wood or plastics containing chlorine, such as PVC. This gives off highly poisonous gases. Also, don’t use driftwood from the sea as it contains salt which is converted to chlorine when burned. However, if you’re keen on using driftwood you can help wash the salt out by leaving it outside in the elements for a couple of years.

When lighting a fire, it is a good idea to place two thick wooden logs at either side in the stove. Place some crumpled up paper between them and create a stack of thin split-up logs on top. You can then add more paper if you need to.

Add fuel to the stove often, but only a little amount at a time. If the fire is too strong, the thermal stress in the chimney may be unnecessarily high. Make a moderate fire. Prevent the fire from smoldering as this produces the most pollution. The ideal fire is when the flame is burning well and the smoke from the chimney is almost invisible.

Source: JotulFlame.com